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Olivier Merlin is widely regarded as being one of the very finest winemakers in the Mâconnais. He and his wife Corinne began in 1987 by renting 4.5 hectares. from René Gaillard, of Domaine du Vieux Saint-Sorlin, who wished to retire. Since then, Olivier has been buying the property in stages as well as adding new vineyards such as St Véran (in 1994 and ‘96).
The single-vineyard wines, including Mâcon-La Roche Vineuse, Les Cras and St Véran, Le Grand Bussière, get 18 months’ barrel-ageing with 30 to 50% new wood. Olivier has established a reputation as one of the region’s most dynamic growers, a reference point for the Mâconnais. The whites demonstrate his exceptional winemaking talents, and the potential of “lowly” appellations. They are frequently taken for Côte d'Or wines if tasted blind. Olivier and Corinne have recently been joined at the domaine by their sons, Théo and Paul, who have completed their winemaking studies, and also spent time working at wineries in the Mornington Peninsula.
The 2021 Mâcon La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes comes from vines from 60 to 80 years old sourced from five parcels. This has a winsome nose with white peach, Conference pear and light chalk scents that are contained and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with a lightly spiced entry and fine acidity. It's saline in the mouth with a twist of lemon rind on the finish. Very commendable. Drink 2024 - 2038. Neal Martin, Vinous