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Dönnhoff Niederhauser Klamm Riesling Kabinett 2021

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Dönnhoff Collection by Philglas & Swiggot

  • Size: 750ml
  • Vintage: 2021
  • ABV: 9%
  • Origin: Nahe/Germany
  • Grapes: 100% Riesling


In the early 20th century Hermann Dönnhoff laid the foundations of the modern estate by concentrating on Riesling from top sites and by selling the wines in bottle during the 1920s under the names of the sites. His son Hermann Jr bought the Oberhäuser Brücke site and built the first cellars and press house in 1936. Hermann Jr's son, Helmut, took over in 1971 and achieved international success with his wines, which he modestly attributes to the quality of the sites he inherited. His son Cornelius took over full responsibility in 2007, with his father still around to help. The estate now consists of 28 hectares, 80% Riesling with the balance in Pinot Blanc and Gris grown on sandstone, volcanic soils and weathered slate. Fermentation is in a mixture of oak casks and stainless steel. The best sites are around Oberhausen, Schlossböckelheim and Niederhausen. The wines are rich and complex with a wonderful concentration of flavours.

Peachy, almost delicate, meyer lemons and a back-palate stoniness, but one must wait as it had just been sulfured. The site is next door to Hermannshöhle on a mélange of Rotliegend and porphyry; some of it is steep and some is flat, and often it feels a little like Nierstein-meets-Felsenberg.

The 2021 Niederhäuser Klamm Riesling Kabinett is from volcanic soils and comes pure and refined yet intense and spicy on the nose, with notes of crushed stones and salts. Lush and racy on the palate, this is a light yet intense and juicy, piquant and stimulatingly grippy Kabinett that is also a bit too rich for the predicate, but it's a fascinating Riesling again. 9% stated alcohol. Screw cap. Tasted in July 2022. Wine Advocate