Grosset Riesling `Polish Hill` Clare Valley 2022

Description

For almost four decades, the Grosset 'Springvale' and 'Polish Hill' Rieslings have shown a consistency of style and quality that has made this one of Australia's greatest wineries. The 'hard rock' blue slate of the Polish Hill site results in wines that are steely and magnificently ageworthy, while the red loam of the Springvale vineyard gives more open and easily accessible - though no less complex - wines. Jeffrey Grosset is fanatical about the quality of his vineyards, which are certified organic and are hand tended, with a focus on sustainability to offset climate change. In the winery, each process is gentle and uncomplicated. No fining agents are used and sulphur is the only addition. By combining a disciplined approach and decades of experience, Grosset consistently achieves the purest expression of variety and place.

From 'The King of Riesling', this hard rock site is overlaid with silty, low fertility soils, producing restrained, steely, pure wines. The Polish Hill vineyard was planted in 1996, following years of research into the effect of soil, rock and altitude on Riesling. The 2021 has aromas of lavender, herbs, lime and a hint of chalk. Framed by a pure natural acidity, the concentrated palate is pure lime juice and lemon pith with a characteristic shaley minerality. Tight, fine and steely with a long, bone dry finish. Certified organic.

The Polish Hill Riesling is muscular and defined in its structure and is routinely possessed of an authority and grace straight off the bat. This 2022 Polish Hill Riesling is mineral and fine, but phenolic and taut, too. The acidity creates tension and life in the mouth, and despite the wine being pristine, it is chalky and pithy, too. The Polish Hill Riesling has a decorated legacy and is prized for its longevity in the cellar. There have been mutterings of similarities between 2022 and the great and fabled 2002 vintage, boding very well indeed for the future of this wine. Riesling mainlines the dirt and takes us to place. This is why we gravitate toward great wine, to be taken to dirt, vineyard and region. Drink 2022-2042. 97pts Wine Advocate