Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin 2022

Description

The Droins have been producing wines in Chablis for nearly 400 years (their history as vignerons goes back at least to 1620). Benoît represents the14th generation of Droins and is one of the most dynamic winemakers in the region. His father Jean-Paul put the domaine on the map but perhaps went too far down the road of new oak barrels. The domaine owns 13 hectares of vineyards and produces 14 different wines, including Petit Chablis, Chablis, 7 Premiers Crus and 5 Grands Crus. Benoît runs a more sophisticated operation from a large modern winery almost in the shadow of the grands crus. He has revised his pruning system and significantly reduced yields. In the cellar the principal change has been away from new oak. Each wine now gets the treatment which Benoît thinks is suited to its terroir. Thus Petit Chablis, Chablis, premiers crus Vaucoupin and Côte de Lechet, and grand cru Blanchots are all fermented and matured in tank. Vaillons, Mont de Milieu and Montée de Tonnerre receive 25 per cent of barrel fermentation and maturation, 35 per cent for Vosgros and Vaudésir, 40 per cent for Montmains and Valmur, peaking at 50 per cent for Fourchaume, Grenouilles and Les Clos. However the age of the oak and the choice of tonnelier may vary according to the cuvée. The maximum new oak is ten per cent in the grands crus.

Vaillons is a steep, south-east facing site and Droin have a large parcel of nearly 5 hectares. Wines from here are always open and expressive, the fruit translates as almost sweetly rich, laden with flavour. Its open feel lends it very while to some new oak maturation, but you don’t see the oak in the wine. Benoît feels Vaillons mimics wines from the heart of Burgundy with its texture and elegance. A wine of elegance rather than minerality, there is a generous and open attack with ripe yellow citrus. There is a floral character, but then saline and tangy acids behind.

92-94pts. The 2022 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru has a complex bouquet with touches of white peach and a muscat-like scent, very focused and seductive. The palate conveys energy and vigor with citrus fruit and hints of orange zest towards the persistent finish. Superb. Drink 2025-2037, Neal Martin, Vinous