Nuits-Saint-Georges 'Clos de la Fontaine Jacquinot' Domaine Henri Gouges 2021

Description

One of Burgundy’s most famous and historic producers, the bottles of Henri Gouges are instantly recognisable for their distinctive green labels, while the wines themselves were always identified by their very sturdy tannic structure that need a lot of time, love and patience in the cellar for them to come around. No longer is this true, with riper fruit and tannins in the vineyard and practices in the cellar are less extractive, and yet the wines remain first class amongst the great producers in Nuits-St-Georges. Henri’s great grandson, Gregory Gouges, now makes the wine for this 15-hectare domain.

Since the new gravity-fed cuverie was completed and Greg became winemaker a decade ago, it has re-invented itself as a progressive, dynamic domaine very much at the top of its game producing reference point Nuits. Ditching mechanical pumps and using gravity to move juice around helps keeps the berries whole for longer, accentuating the fragrance of the wines and enhancing the silkiness of the tannins. As a result, vineyard characteristics seem more pronounced and the wines more seductive in youth, yet they remain true to Nuits and retain longevity in keeping with this progressive appellation.

Recent vintages have achieved an astonishing scenario. Loyalists have been re-invigorated by the increased sophistication of the wines, whilst their newfound sexiness has seduced many newcomers.

 The 2021 Nuits Saint-Georges Cuvée Fontaine Jacquinots comes from plots situated near Château-Gris in Les Crots at slightly higher altitude. Sulphur here was only added after the malo and it includes 20% whole bunches. The bouquet is pretty and floral with perfumed red cherry. The stem addition is judicious and lends complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, finely balanced, a touch of white pepper towards the finish, lively rather than profound. Neal Martin, Vinous .