Niewodniczanski, seven foot tall scion of the Bitbürger brewing family, bought the ailing Van Volxem estate in the Saar valley, tributary of the Mosel, in 1999 and has restored the property to more than its former health and fame. His holdings in the great vineyards of the Saar - Scharzhofberger, Wiltinger Kupp, Kanzemer Altenberg - are on strikingly steep slopes and meticulously farmed without use of fertilisers to produce ripe grapes at low yields. Any grapes from vines under 30 years old are declassified to his Saar Riesling.
The style of the wines harks back to the old traditions of the 19th Century. They are dry or off dry, developing full vineyard characteristics through the ripeness of the grapes, avoidance of botrytis and a long slow vinification process on the lees. A ripe fruited and scented Riesling, fermented to dryness and displaying a linen palate and some delicate mineral notes and a fruit driven finish.