Peter-Jakob Kühn started in 1979, the eleventh generation of his family to assume responsibility. This is one of the few estates in Germany to use biodynamic methods, and he and his family do it with awe-inspiring passion and thoroughness. The conversion was gradual, and started at home: unhealthy food was banned – no white sugar, white flour or processed foods of any kind. They realised that the chemical industry was encouraging an unhealthy dependence in farmers on its products, sidelining nature in the process. So they abandoned herbicides and insecticides, anti-fungal sprays, and cultured yeasts; in 2001 they took the plunge and became biodynamically certified.
Peter-Jakob Kühn are now one of Germany’s leading growers, and especially in the past five years or so, we have loved these as quality has been just absolutely outstanding. The estate comprises 20 hectares, with prime sites in and around Oestrich. 90% is given over to Riesling production. The wines are now made by Peter-Bernhard, who has refined the biodynamic methods pioneered by his parents.
The 2017 Jacobus Riesling is expressive and packed with smoky minerality, wax, hints of petrol. The palate is dry and crisp with zingy cistrus fruit, almost like preserved lemon, green and yellow apple. A delicious wine that can be drunk over several days - if you can resist finishing the bottle! - and just gets better!