Etienne Grivot and his wife Marielle (Patrick Bize's sister) took over from his father in 1990, making him the fifth generation of Grivots to make wine in Vosne-Romanée. In the 1930s it was one of the first domaines to bottle and sell the wines themselves. The Grivots go back a long way in Burgundy. Indeed two previous generations of Grivots have married girls of the same surname. Jean Grivot, whose name continues to appear on the labels, took over from his father in 1955 and handed on to his son Etienne in the early 1980s. Etienne, married to Marielle Bize from Savigny, has been through a number of incarnations as winemaker here. When he took over, his father’s style was for gentle, graceful wines which perhaps were a little weak in the lesser vintages. In 1994, a difficult year but a breakthrough vintage at the domaine, Etienne began to find his own voice and made a range of very fine wines given how poor the weather was. Since then he has not looked back and a drive to reduce yields and fine-tune his work in the vineyards and cellar since the mid-2000s continues to drive quality upwards.
“It is an amazing vintage,” Mathilde Grivot told me in their first-floor tasting room above the winery (alas, the view over the vines was shrouded in the first autumn fog). She has now really taken over the running of this domaine from her father Etienne, who was present, though he let his daughter do most of the talking. “I remember in 2019 my father told us that he had never seen that kind of vintage, but during the harvest of 2020, the balance was even better. ' Neal Martin, Vinous