Brunello of the highest class. The history of Lisini dates back to the Medicis; this is one of Montalcino’s oldest estates and a founding member of the Consorzio del vino Brunello di Montalcino. Lisini is one of the most traditional and respected producers in the region.
One of the few producers in Sant’Angelo in Colle, in the southwest of Montalcino. Woodland and wild scrubs surround the 20 hectares under vine here; it’s a rural haven of the region’s finest terroir. Altitude and soil play a leading role in the personality of Lisini’s wines. Eocene sand, clay and iron-rich soils, paired with altitudes of 300 to 400 metres, yield wines of rare expression. Winemaker Filippo Paoletti does not fall prey to modern trends or intervention in the cantina; he chooses to showcase the naked perfection of his vineyards. Opting to use traditional long fermentations and botti grande, he produces classic.
93pts. The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is wild and spunky, presenting a mix of sweet rose and raspberry contrasted by savory herbs, hints of sawdust and white pepper. There are depths of tart red berries, spices and minerals on the palate, drenching the senses in primary concentration, yet zesty acids maintain notable balance. A coating of fine tannins lingers through the long, structured finale, along with echoes of violet, blueberry skins and licorice. There is simply so much going on in this glass, but it has the balance to improve through medium-term cellaring. Eric Guido, Vinous