Artemis Karamolegos is one of our favourite producers on Santorini (alongside Argyros Estate). Both are based just below the Pyrgos region in the middle of the island, a higher elevation area that is one of the last to ripen Assyrtiko. Consequently the wines are both rounder and more powerful, and carry more perfume of lime blossom and jasmine.
Artemis founded the winery in 2004 but his grandfather has cultivated vines since the 1950s. They own 3ha of old vineyards and farm another 5ha or so across the best villages on Santorini. Winemaker Lefteris Anagnostou has led the winery to the top echelon of producers and they have been in the vanguard of a move to wines of more specific sites, as well as experimenting with some skin contact winemaking.
Pyritis is the flagship wine, made from 3 parcels of grapes from vineyards that extend to more than 120 years of age. Two are in Pyrgos and one in the lower elevation village of Megalochori. Fermentation is in stainless steel at cool temperatures, followed by long lees ageing (10 months) and regular stirring.
Tasted on a Master of Wine trip to Santorini in October 2019 this was one of the highlights of the island - it blazes with purity and huge shape on the palate and the expected wide spectrum of lemon balm, fresh seasalt and lemon oil to finish. You could age it for a decade but I would neither aim or expect to, its utterly fantastic in its youth. Great with a bouillabaise or smoked sardines and fava beans.