The Gros are an illustrious, vigneron family on the Côte de Nuits, and Michel is the oldest sibling to Anne, both of whom run their own domaines (with distinct plots), and separately to the family domaine Gros Frère & Soeur. While they all have their own ideas, a common thread is that the Gros wines are full of pleasure and richness which can sometimes distract from the undoubted quality of their vineyard holdings.
Michel was a pioneer of the Hautes-Côtes appellation, a cooler area on the Burgundy plateau which has become more popular and highly regarded over recent, warm vintages. His methods have been noted for their unconventional nature, as he loves to experiment with blending, fractionating and modifying temperature during winemaking and early maturation. Yet tasting his wines there is nothing but dazzling purity, pinpoint freshness and marvellously creamy tannins.
Michel and his father started reclaiming this over-grown vineyard together in 1976, planting Pinot Noir in the 1980s. Fontaine Saint Martin is a south-east facing slope at over 350m elevation, with soils that match the Pernand marl found on the Hill of Corton some 5km to the south. He has vinified the wine separately since the beginning, but first released it as a Monopole in 2014.
'The 2019 is a stunningly fresh wine laden with blueberry and graphite yet is bright and strewn with light and delicacy. It reminds me very much of the Loire with its combination of spice, layers of forest fruit and ease of drinking. It also tends to be a half point or more lower in alcohol than wines from lower elevations, making this a wonderful lunchtime Pinot and excellent to drink soon-ish after release.' Justin Knock MW, tasted December 2020