One of Burgundy’s most famous and historic producers, the bottles of Henri Gouges are instantly recognisable for their distinctive green labels, while the wines themselves were always identified by their very sturdy tannic structure that need a lot of time, love and patience in the cellar for them to come around. No longer is this true, with riper fruit and tannins in the vineyard and practices in the cellar are less extractive, and yet the wines remain first class amongst the great producers in Nuits-St-Georges. Henri’s great grandson, Gregory Gouges, now makes the wine for this 15-hectare domain.
This 4-hectare monopole Clos, from within the Porrets-St-Georges vineyard, has great energy and intensity. It’s very stony and sited on the mid slope, with vines from 15-30 years of age and some over 60 years old. Again, that beautiful, complex perfume built around plum and liquorice with some wilder elements. Oak more evident but only just. Will age wonderfully. Drink from 2022 onwards.