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Vieux Télégraphe

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe 2017 (Magnum)

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  • Size: 1500ml
  • Vintage: 2017
  • ABV: 14.5%
  • Origin: Châteauneuf-du-Pape/Southern Rhone/France
  • Grapes: 65% Grenache Noir, 15%Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, Cinsault, Clairette

Description

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe has since 1891 been run by six generations of the Brunier family.

The estate’s vineyards, 60 years old on average, are planted on the celebrated Plateau of La Crau, a site renowned for grape-growing in Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the south-east of the appellation, where the villages of Bédarrides, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Courthézon meet.. This terroir imparts to  a highly distinctive minerality to their wines, as if they have been filtered through the thick layer of large pebbles left behind when the Alpine glaciers melted, long before the Rhône Valley formed.

Slated to be bottled less than a week after my visit, the final blend of the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau is fresh, vibrant and zesty, with notes of roses, tea, raspberries and blood oranges. Full-bodied yet diaphanous and silky, it doesn't appear to have the richness of either the 2016 or 2018.

'Slated to be bottled less than a week after my visit, the final blend of the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau is fresh, vibrant and zesty, with notes of roses, tea, raspberries and blood oranges. Full-bodied yet diaphanous and silky, it doesn't appear to have the richness of either the 2016 or 2018.

The quality and consistency of the wines here largely speak for themselves. While the focus has always been on producing high-quality wines, what that means has been refined over the years, with an increasing emphasis on terroir expression and inherent elegance. Introduced in 2011, the Piedlong bottling reflects this, coming almost entirely from that lieu-dit. Unfortunately, those Grenache vines didn't fare well under the mildew onslaught in 2018, and there's no 2018 Piedlong. Such are the perils of a terroir-based approach' 92-94pts, Joe Czerwinski, www.robertparker.com, Drink 2019 -2030

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