The Droins have been producing wines in Chablis for nearly 400 years (their history as vignerons goes back at least to 1620). Benoît represents the14th generation of Droins and is one of the most dynamic winemakers in the region. His father Jean-Paul put the domaine on the map but perhaps went too far down the road of new oak barrels. The domaine owns 13 hectares of vineyards and produces 14 different wines, including Petit Chablis, Chablis, 7 Premiers Crus and 5 Grands Crus. Benoît runs a more sophisticated operation from a large modern winery almost in the shadow of the grands crus. He has revised his pruning system and significantly reduced yields. In the cellar the principal change has been away from new oak. Each wine now gets the treatment which Benoît thinks is suited to its terroir. Thus Petit Chablis, Chablis, premiers crus Vaucoupin and Côte de Lechet, and grand cru Blanchots are all fermented and matured in tank. Vaillons, Mont de Milieu and Montée de Tonnerre receive 25 per cent of barrel fermentation and maturation, 35 per cent for Vosgros and Vaudésir, 40 per cent for Montmains and Valmur, peaking at 50 per cent for Fourchaume, Grenouilles and Les Clos. However the age of the oak and the choice of tonnelier may vary according to the cuvée. The maximum new oak is ten per cent in the grands crus.
Valmur is a very powerful, imposing "climat" with a lot of minerality. This confers on the wine an austerity and a sense of reserve that are the signature of the great wines of Chablis. Yellow and white fleshed fruits like peach and apricot are revealed. In sunny years, these notes develop towards concentrated fruits "confits" and quince. In cool years, the floral notes such as hawthorn offer the wine of this "climat" all its distinctiveness. It is a great wine for keeping and it generally needs more than 10 years for the wine to decompress and reveal all its substance. It will be perfect with white meat in sauce, with lobster or also with mature cheeses.