The 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Champlots is showing brilliantly from bottle, unwinding to reveal notes of citrus oil, crisp orchard fruit, clear honey, white flowers and wheat toast. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and beautifully balanced, with terrific concentration, chalky structuring extract, and a long, mineral finish. 92 Vinous.
Since Benoît and Jean-Baptiste Bachelet favor long élevage in barrel, this is another address where I opted to review bottled wines rather than unfinished samples, so I revisited the 2017s I reported on from cask last year. The range has turned out brilliantly, meeting or surpassing the high expectations I formed during my 2018 visit, and they merit special effort to seek out. As I wrote last year, style here is textural and concentrated but classically balanced—with the brothers picking in a timely fashion but eschewing extremes. The grapes are sometimes but not systematically crushed before pressing, followed by overnight settling and fermentation in wood—both barrels and demi-muids—with occasional bâtonnage until conclusion of malolactic fermentation. The wines see two winters on the lees before bottling. Today, as these 2017s demonstrated, this numbers among the Côte de Beaune's finest addresses, and given the quality, the wines fly somewhat under the radar. Jean-Claude Bachelet, who passed away while this report was being prepared, must be proud of all that his sons are achieving.