Château Thivin of the Côte de Brouilly appellation in Beaujolais has been in the hands of the Geoffray family since 1877. Today Claude and Evelyne Geoffray produce several different cuvees depending on the orientation of each parcel as the Côte de Brouilly hill has vines on all of its four sides. The regular wine blend is known as Sept Vignes (as there are seven different locations for their various plots), while they are increasingly introducing single vineyard cuvees.
Even in its infancy, the 2018 is exceptionally complex, with a gamut of aromas including ripe red and blue berries, cola, black pepper and liquorice. The eponymous vineyard’s southerly aspect results in a relatively ripe, concentrated wine, yet its thin, rocky blue soils – emblematic of the Côte de Brouilly – contribute a cool, mineral character to the palate. The 2018 vintage will drink well right out of the blocks, but don’t hesitate to tuck away a few bottles, to marvel at just how well it ages.
93pts, Antonio Galloni, vinous.com