The Agraparts have been renowned for the quality of their blanc de blancs Champagnes for many generations and even when the world queues outside his door trying to get an allocation, Pascal continues to be modest, reserved and down to earth, a true farmer and man of the earth. No website here, certainly no social media, no mixed metaphors, complex allusions or word games. Logic and experience guide him – his own and that of his family before him. Taking over the domaine in 1985 Pascal has quietly progressed to the point where he is a true master of his profession. They have 12ha of vineyards, and 50% of the vines are planted in the grand cru of Avize, where Selosse also has most of his vineyards. When asked about the vineyard practices he explains, "my model is the pyramid. If the foundation is not solid, then nothing else works. I viewed the practices of previous generations as the base. If I had used herbicides then I would have undermined the foundations." Pascal works according to the natural rhythms in the vineyard. "The best treatments are sunshine, air and ploughing the vines. 75% of a wine’s quality comes from the roots. We have ploughed here for five generations and the vines are very deep-rooted. In hot vintages, our wines always do well because the vines can find water and nutrients deep below. I work the soil four to five times per season, when I see earth turned over, gently steaming in the cool early morning air, I find that beautiful."
This comes from vines in seven villages, including the Grands Crus of Avize and Cramant. Blended from the 2017 and 2016 vintages and given over two years 'sur lattes', the dosage of 7g/l is well judged, helping to emphasize its driving fruitiness and minerality. Disgorged 06/20.
It offers so much more depth and energy than any other Champagne in its price category. The nose is so elegant, with aromas of white flowers and a hint of honey. Very pure with an amazing mouthfeel combined with nectarine, apple and a herbaceous character, with a very fine minerality.