If you’re looking for energy, precision and character, look no further than the wines of Thomas Haag. It doesn’t hurt that they age supremely well, reflect their terroirs brilliantly, and are quite delicious.
Thomas Haag’s career is one of the great success stories of the Mosel. His pedigree is impeccable, starting with learning at the feet of his father Wilhelm Haag, who made Weingut Fritz Haag great. Since taking over Schloss Lieser in 1992 and buying it outright in 1997, he has grown the estate from 6.5 to 25 hectares, owning an impressive range of plots from Brauneberg (Juffer and Juffer-Sonnenuhr) to Piesport (Goldtröpchen and Falkenberg), including Lieser (Helden), Wehlen (Sonnenuhr) and Graach (Himmelreich and Domprobst) as well as harvesting a tiny parcel in Bernkastel (Doctor). Through brilliant organisation and hard work Thomas and his gifted vineyard manager Philipp Veser have made better wines together every year, teasing out the best of each vineyard they acquire.
To taste these wines is to see the complexity and character of each separate site in a new light. They are a joy, and they are, incidentally, amongst the most reasonably priced of the Mosel’s great estates. The Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard is a new acquisition from 2014, of five parcels in separate parts of the vineyard, totalling just under a hectare, and the Kabinett has an overtly floral character, with smooth elegant ripe pear and apple fruit, a hint of acacia honey, zingy citrus flavours and a long slatey finish. This wine is off-dry and has a subtle sweetness on the palate which is well balanced zingy acidity.