Bonneau du Martray own the highest proportion of vines on the hill of Corton, and since the early 1990s has been a benchmark Burgundian Domaine. Heavy pruning and green harvesting mean that yields are astonishingly low and, much to the amazement of neighbours, they are usually the first to harvest by several days. After elevage in barriques, these tantalisingly fine, mineral wines undergo the very lightest of filtrations before being bottled.
The original Bonneau property covered 24 hectares though half was sold by one branch of the family and a little more has disappeared since. In Jean le Bault’s time, there was a significant proportion of red Corton but much of this has been grubbed up since and replanted with Chardonnay. Today the domaine covers 11.09 hectares, all in one continuous holding located on the Pernand side of the great Corton hill, of which 9.50 hectares are Corton-Charlemagne and the remainder Corton. Yields are severely restricted and in the cuverie as many as 16 different parcels of grapes are vinified separately in order for their respective "terroirs" to be reflected in the wine. The reds have hugely improved under Jean-Charles le Bault’s stewardship, though the site in Le Charlemagne is clearly worthier of grand cru status for white wine rather than red.
The estate’s only red offering, the Corton had been criticised in some quarters until Jean-Charles turned production around. Now, yields are restricted by green harvesting to an average of 30 hectolitres per hectare, and a complete destemming is followed by a period of cold-soaking prior to fermentation. The result is a wine full of velvety tannins, deep colours and a rounded, fruity nose. 2015 was one of the most memorable red vintages in the last decade, with beautifully structured wines, showing a depth of colour and flavour very rarely seen in Pinot Noir.