Charles Ballot is a rugged sort of bloke and not at all the kind you’d expect to make wines of great finesse and elegance, especially in Meursault where rugged and swagger are not bad adjectives much of the time, but also softness, richness and depth. Thoughtful and quietly spoken, Charles is yet another youthful winemaker whose decade or so of experience on the family domaine is yielding more exciting wines every year.
Meursault village - £170/6 IB
We tasted this not long after racking and yet it showed surprising richness and chewiness, the oak looking a little generous but the flavours were there and well in check. Eventually more lime and silk and just a hint of stoniness. Mature vines (30-40 years old) give this excellent weight. Drink from 2019 onwards.
Meursault 1er Cru Charmes - £300/6
You can see why the name is as it is – the perfume is incredible. Light, airy, a touch of creaminess underpinning a praline deftness and then more assertive power on the finish. Builds impressively the longer it carries in the mouth. I would love this immediately, but wait until 2020 onwards to drink if you can. A tremendous premier cru on top form.
Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres - £350/6
There are no grand crus in Meursault, but if there were one then this it would be. Historically it was considered next best after the Montrachets, high praise indeed, the combination of stone marl giving this all the fat and pleasure of Charmes and the mineral edge of Genevrieres. Off the bat the nose on this is fantastic, smile inducing, and tight. The palate falls away rapidly into a long, deep ride, packed with yellow fruits, everything ripped, tight and spritely into a beautifully balanced finish. I want to go again. Amazing now, but a great one for the cellar in 6-8 years. Drink from 2022 onwards.
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