With so many of the well established, and most famous names in Burgundy reaching very high prices, a good strategy is to find young producers, early on in their career, and follow them as the rise through the ranks. That way you can secure great wines, regularly, at much more reasonable prices. Phillipe Pernot is one such producer, who like Stephane Magnien began his domaine in 2009, and has since vastly improved quality with each new vintage. He’s also in line to inherit some fabulous plots from the family domaine in due course. Philippe’s wines are made for pleasure, they deliver power and richness and masses of satisfying drinking. A longer elevage in barrel in recent years has seen these wines grow in stature and length.
Puligny-Montrachet village - £170/6 IB
This is more elegant than his Meursault, despite being picked later, showing classic power over silk. There is restraint but the fruit is fully ripe. Wonderful amalgam of dried apple, stone fruit and fresh cream tart thanks to the 20% new oak. Will be great to drink young but has the same acidity as 2014 so don’t be surprised to see it age well. Drink 2019 onwards.
Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru Champ Canet - £250/6 IB
A very good premier cru that borders the great Meursault Perrieres to the north, noted for its very stony soils. This, from relatively young 13 year old vines, has lots of power, and exotic tones – mango and apricot – tending to rich and vinous rather than steely and silky. A beautiful wine for those who like expression and intensity. Let it settle in bottle for a few years and then drink from 2020 onwards.
Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru Champ Gain - £260/6 IB
A beautiful contrast to the Champ Canet, this is high up the slope on much thinner soils. It can mean the vines struggle in hot dry years, but the mature vines (35-40) have deep roots and handled 2015 with ease. Instead of power and exotic fruit, this is loaded with a heady perfume of white flowers and honeysuckle, the palate is nervous and piercing. Very fine, this will be terrific in 3-4 years time. Drink from 2020 onwards.
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