I was deeply impressed with the wines of Stephane Magnien on our visit in October. Quietly spoken, he took over his family’s very small, 4.5 hectare domain in 2009, and is making some truly beautiful wines – a young producer on the up on the Cote de Nuits. Most of his parcels are in Morey-Saint-Denis with a couple of parcels in Chambolle-Musigny.
The wines from Morey-Saint-Denis evoke thoughts of the earth and forest, drawing you into a space redolent of minerals, wood smoke and forest berry fruits. They can be restrained in youth but age magnificently. Chambolle-Musigny is often easily recognised for its illustrious and heady perfume, and silky red fruits. Arguably the most charming village on the entire Cote d’Or.
Morey-Saint-Denis Villages - £135/6 IB
Sourced from 4 parcels, this has amazing purity and brightness. Perfumed with a stunning spectrum of summer berry fruit (raspberry, boysenberry, cherry), and aside from its beautiful palate weight it has great freshness and acidity. Absolutely delicious. The village wines are so good in 2015. Drink from 2018 onwards.
Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Faconnieres - £230/6 IB
One of the best Morey premier cru, it sits just below what is arguably the finest grand cru in Morey, the Clos de la Roche. The fruit tone here is deeper, (in the boysenberry, blueberry, plum spectrum), and the inviting openness that is a hallmark of Morey, leading onto a vast chamber of hidden purple and blue fruits. A stunning wine, this is layered and complex, with lustrous tannins. Wonderful balance. Drink from 2021 onwards.
Chambolle-Musigny Veilles Vignes - £170/6 IB
A rarity in Burgundy, this comes from 100+ year old vines, a plot planted on its own roots in 1902/03, that has survived the ravages of Phylloxera to this day. There are even several trunks of gamay and pinot gris interplanted in this site. A superb village wine that encompasses everything we hope for in Chambolle - pure and enthralling perfume. The vinification is very simple, a cold soak at 10-12°C followed by ageing in mostly old oak barrels. A great buy. Drink from 2018 onwards.
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Sentiers - £270/6 IB
The village wines are beautiful, while the premier crus just soar. A plot of mostly 60 year old vines, although some are over 100, this is an exemplary premier cru that sits just below the magnificent grand cru, Bonnes Mares, both of which border Morey-Saint-Denis to the north. The purity of raspberry and cherry fruit just floats and soars above the glass, the power of fruit in 2015 self-evident. I tasted this and needed a few strong words to describe it adequately, the palate is just so fresh with perfect tension. This will be beautiful in another 5-10 years. Drink from 2020 onwards.
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